Friday, May 18, 2007
I know I'm not the only one counting down the minutes until 7:00pm Pacific time, which is when the Chanel Cruise show will take place at an airplane hanger in Los Angeles. The show looks promising already, with previews for the collection containing the beautiful Claudia Schiffer (as well as Sasha & Irina), plus tons of great accessories and ROLLER SKATES.
Monday, May 14, 2007
The Elite.
In honor of the interviews I had at various agencies today for a summer internship position, I decided to switch things up again, and instead of posting a model interview, I want to post an interview with a booker from Elite Model Management in NYC. His name is Matti Gidlevich - here he is with modeling sensation, Coco Rocha.
How did you get started as a booker? What was the first agency you worked at?
I was hired as an assistant at Ford Models Canada, where I worked as an assistant to both the agency director and with in Talent division. After not very long, I gravitated more towards the Film and Television side of the agency, but this was not were I was to stay for very long. I assisted with the Film and TV for a few years before taking over the Kids Film and Television division. Working with the kids and their families really prepared me to work with the new faces, in my next venture. After a good run with the Children’s Division at Ford, we parted ways and I began working for Giovanni Model Management in Toronto. It was at Giovanni that I found my true love for the business, the hustle and bustle, the fast pace and of course the traveling. Working with top models Jessica Stam, Heather Marks among countless others from the early days in their carriers, scouting across Canada building relationships with Mother Agencies, attending model searches, booking editorials and money jobs. All this leading up to my current position at Elite Model Management Toronto, where as my business card says “Agent / Development”. Translation; I’m in charge of scouting and development for the agency, as well as booking the new the new faces.
Do you remember your first major achievement/booking?
I would have to guess that my entire learning curve; working with actors, the kids and their parents, and then finally the models, was my greatest achievement. I’ve had kids working on Films, MOW, doing voice work for Animation, Disney’s The Music Man, The Lion King, and several Canadian television series. Models I’ve worked with have gone on to shoot major campaigns, worked with Vogue, etc… Getting myself to the place I am now, with the friends and colleagues I’ve worked with along the way, has been my major achievement to date.
What does your daily work consist of?
Being both an agent on the women’s board, and in charge of development for the new faces, there really is no standard list of to do’s on any given day. I think that’s why I love this job so much, it’s always something new and interesting, from meeting new people, working with new clients – it’s never dull!
Typically Monday thru Friday I’m booking the currently established girls with our local clients, while work on getting new models developed and out to see photographers and key clients. A large part of my day is spent checking and responding to emails, I’d say on an average day I will get about 500 emails, some booking related, some new faces looking for representation, questions from parents, contact sheets from photographers, you name it! I also spend a very large part of my day on the phone; I’d hazard a guess that more than half my day is spent on the phone, giving models details for their bookings, speaking with parents, clients, etc.
Being in charge of development requires constant correspondence with kids I’ve scouted across the country. Keeping in touch with these kids is key, as not every model is ready to go once found, some need to grow a bit taller, some are still in school. My weekends are also busy, I’d say about 2 weekends a month I’m on the road scouting, Halifax, Montreal, Vancouver, Calgary, Edmonton, Chatham, Peterborough, Ottawa, Bellville, New York, Los Angeles, Barrie – and that’s only been with in the last 6 months! When dealing with models and model placement, you have to be avail 24/7. I’ve been called from Paris at 4am, woken from a deep sleep, to solve a problem for model who had her passport stolen, and needed to get to London for a booking.
So as you can see there really is no “typical day”.
What are some important qualities you look for in a prospective model?
When looking at a potential model, there are a number of qualities that I look for, and first and foremost is personality! In the 10 years I have been in the business, I’ve worked with many different models, from new faces to “Canadian Super Stars”. The one quality that all top models share is personality!
Of course when looking for models, we’re always looking for height, symmetry of the face, fantastic bone structure, great body proportions and legs that go on for days. A nice long neck, a great smile, and a healthy outlook on life is also important. It is my experience that models who participate in other activities, such as dance, sports, or clubs are also better prepared to enter the modeling world, as they have much more life experience to bring to the table. We tend to expect a lot from new models, at an average age of 16 years old, working with photographers and clients ten plus years older… It’s a tuff adjustment for some.
What is the "average life span" for a model?
The average lifespan of a model has dramatically changed in recent years. 10 years ago, one would say the maximum lifespan was 5 years. Now a days, with the baby boomer generation moving forward into retirement, we’re seeing models careers reborn. Many of the “Supermodels” have made a triumphant return to the business and are as popular as they ever were. We’re also seeing this shift in our local markets with advertisers pushing the age categories older, to reflect the aging population.
What has been one of the most successful bookings for your current agency?
My most memorable booking of my entire career thus far, was my first Fragrance contract. As one can imagine cosmetics and fragrances are the most lucrative jobs, as they are considered highly visible and thus high conflict campaigns. Negotiating my first international campaign was an exhilarating time. Dealing with the many different clients, both Canadian, and Spanish, finally hammering out a deal that everyone was happy with. Hearing the gasp over the phone, as we went over the contract, and discussed the model fees, then finally seeing the look on her face when the payment was received. I think I’ll have those images in my head for life, and that’s a good thing.
For the new faces out there, what advice do you have on starting a successful portfolio?
All agents work differently to achieve a similar goal. The way one agency may envision your development, may be quite different from another’s. The plans I have in store for a girl may be completely opposite to what another agency might plan, again it’s also about understanding and trusting your agent. I encourage our models to ask questions, to become involved in their own careers. Find out what kind of shoot they are doing, and what they can do to better the shoot, what kind of poses, inspiration, etc. I tend to work with new faces, with my digital camera, before a shoot, so they can see what I’m talking about, learning poses, getting comfortable, releasing tension held in their mouth.
What is the hardest part of working with models? Do you think agents are more critical of men, or women?
I think the hardest part of dealing with models is the fact that sometimes clients forget that models are people too, that have feelings and emotions. I have found that clients get desensitized to models feelings; I don’t think it’s a personal thing, just dealing with models like a commodity can apparently do it so some people. I have heard from many a model, that a client said this, or a client said that to me… and some girls walked away with hurt feelings, some even insulted. For the most part many of these young girls are not used to dealing with rejection, and rejection based upon looks alone, is quite hard to take at first. It’s our job to help the models with this, to explain that it’s not that the client doesn’t like them, but merely doesn’t like their look for a particular project. I think agents and clients alike are more critical of women, as the majority of the business is female based. Typically when we see a great girl there is always some type of checklist (mental or physical), hips, height, legs, etc. I think it’s easier for a male model to get through the door, and start up a career.
If a model is looking to be represented by Elite, what sort of steps should they take?
We hold open call every week, Wednesday’s from 10am to 1pm where individuals are invited to come in and speak with an agent about their options. Thanks to the internet, we get suggestions from all over the world, from perspective models seeking representation. It has also made it easier for kids living in rural Canada to send in a few snap shots via the internet, with the use of their cell phone, or digital camera. I recommend that before anyone signs with an agency, that they do their due diligence and research, research, research! Speak to other models, contact agencies, call for references. Again the internet has made this a much easier task, almost all agencies have a website now, that lists the talent they represent. Have a look at the websites, look for images you recognize whether it be campaigns, advertisements or editorials.
And if you are ever in doubt, ask! The only stupid questions is an un-asked question!
Thanks Matti for all of your help, and good luck to you and all the beautiful people at Elite!
How did you get started as a booker? What was the first agency you worked at?
I was hired as an assistant at Ford Models Canada, where I worked as an assistant to both the agency director and with in Talent division. After not very long, I gravitated more towards the Film and Television side of the agency, but this was not were I was to stay for very long. I assisted with the Film and TV for a few years before taking over the Kids Film and Television division. Working with the kids and their families really prepared me to work with the new faces, in my next venture. After a good run with the Children’s Division at Ford, we parted ways and I began working for Giovanni Model Management in Toronto. It was at Giovanni that I found my true love for the business, the hustle and bustle, the fast pace and of course the traveling. Working with top models Jessica Stam, Heather Marks among countless others from the early days in their carriers, scouting across Canada building relationships with Mother Agencies, attending model searches, booking editorials and money jobs. All this leading up to my current position at Elite Model Management Toronto, where as my business card says “Agent / Development”. Translation; I’m in charge of scouting and development for the agency, as well as booking the new the new faces.
Do you remember your first major achievement/booking?
I would have to guess that my entire learning curve; working with actors, the kids and their parents, and then finally the models, was my greatest achievement. I’ve had kids working on Films, MOW, doing voice work for Animation, Disney’s The Music Man, The Lion King, and several Canadian television series. Models I’ve worked with have gone on to shoot major campaigns, worked with Vogue, etc… Getting myself to the place I am now, with the friends and colleagues I’ve worked with along the way, has been my major achievement to date.
What does your daily work consist of?
Being both an agent on the women’s board, and in charge of development for the new faces, there really is no standard list of to do’s on any given day. I think that’s why I love this job so much, it’s always something new and interesting, from meeting new people, working with new clients – it’s never dull!
Typically Monday thru Friday I’m booking the currently established girls with our local clients, while work on getting new models developed and out to see photographers and key clients. A large part of my day is spent checking and responding to emails, I’d say on an average day I will get about 500 emails, some booking related, some new faces looking for representation, questions from parents, contact sheets from photographers, you name it! I also spend a very large part of my day on the phone; I’d hazard a guess that more than half my day is spent on the phone, giving models details for their bookings, speaking with parents, clients, etc.
Being in charge of development requires constant correspondence with kids I’ve scouted across the country. Keeping in touch with these kids is key, as not every model is ready to go once found, some need to grow a bit taller, some are still in school. My weekends are also busy, I’d say about 2 weekends a month I’m on the road scouting, Halifax, Montreal, Vancouver, Calgary, Edmonton, Chatham, Peterborough, Ottawa, Bellville, New York, Los Angeles, Barrie – and that’s only been with in the last 6 months! When dealing with models and model placement, you have to be avail 24/7. I’ve been called from Paris at 4am, woken from a deep sleep, to solve a problem for model who had her passport stolen, and needed to get to London for a booking.
So as you can see there really is no “typical day”.
What are some important qualities you look for in a prospective model?
When looking at a potential model, there are a number of qualities that I look for, and first and foremost is personality! In the 10 years I have been in the business, I’ve worked with many different models, from new faces to “Canadian Super Stars”. The one quality that all top models share is personality!
Of course when looking for models, we’re always looking for height, symmetry of the face, fantastic bone structure, great body proportions and legs that go on for days. A nice long neck, a great smile, and a healthy outlook on life is also important. It is my experience that models who participate in other activities, such as dance, sports, or clubs are also better prepared to enter the modeling world, as they have much more life experience to bring to the table. We tend to expect a lot from new models, at an average age of 16 years old, working with photographers and clients ten plus years older… It’s a tuff adjustment for some.
What is the "average life span" for a model?
The average lifespan of a model has dramatically changed in recent years. 10 years ago, one would say the maximum lifespan was 5 years. Now a days, with the baby boomer generation moving forward into retirement, we’re seeing models careers reborn. Many of the “Supermodels” have made a triumphant return to the business and are as popular as they ever were. We’re also seeing this shift in our local markets with advertisers pushing the age categories older, to reflect the aging population.
What has been one of the most successful bookings for your current agency?
My most memorable booking of my entire career thus far, was my first Fragrance contract. As one can imagine cosmetics and fragrances are the most lucrative jobs, as they are considered highly visible and thus high conflict campaigns. Negotiating my first international campaign was an exhilarating time. Dealing with the many different clients, both Canadian, and Spanish, finally hammering out a deal that everyone was happy with. Hearing the gasp over the phone, as we went over the contract, and discussed the model fees, then finally seeing the look on her face when the payment was received. I think I’ll have those images in my head for life, and that’s a good thing.
For the new faces out there, what advice do you have on starting a successful portfolio?
All agents work differently to achieve a similar goal. The way one agency may envision your development, may be quite different from another’s. The plans I have in store for a girl may be completely opposite to what another agency might plan, again it’s also about understanding and trusting your agent. I encourage our models to ask questions, to become involved in their own careers. Find out what kind of shoot they are doing, and what they can do to better the shoot, what kind of poses, inspiration, etc. I tend to work with new faces, with my digital camera, before a shoot, so they can see what I’m talking about, learning poses, getting comfortable, releasing tension held in their mouth.
What is the hardest part of working with models? Do you think agents are more critical of men, or women?
I think the hardest part of dealing with models is the fact that sometimes clients forget that models are people too, that have feelings and emotions. I have found that clients get desensitized to models feelings; I don’t think it’s a personal thing, just dealing with models like a commodity can apparently do it so some people. I have heard from many a model, that a client said this, or a client said that to me… and some girls walked away with hurt feelings, some even insulted. For the most part many of these young girls are not used to dealing with rejection, and rejection based upon looks alone, is quite hard to take at first. It’s our job to help the models with this, to explain that it’s not that the client doesn’t like them, but merely doesn’t like their look for a particular project. I think agents and clients alike are more critical of women, as the majority of the business is female based. Typically when we see a great girl there is always some type of checklist (mental or physical), hips, height, legs, etc. I think it’s easier for a male model to get through the door, and start up a career.
If a model is looking to be represented by Elite, what sort of steps should they take?
We hold open call every week, Wednesday’s from 10am to 1pm where individuals are invited to come in and speak with an agent about their options. Thanks to the internet, we get suggestions from all over the world, from perspective models seeking representation. It has also made it easier for kids living in rural Canada to send in a few snap shots via the internet, with the use of their cell phone, or digital camera. I recommend that before anyone signs with an agency, that they do their due diligence and research, research, research! Speak to other models, contact agencies, call for references. Again the internet has made this a much easier task, almost all agencies have a website now, that lists the talent they represent. Have a look at the websites, look for images you recognize whether it be campaigns, advertisements or editorials.
And if you are ever in doubt, ask! The only stupid questions is an un-asked question!
Thanks Matti for all of your help, and good luck to you and all the beautiful people at Elite!
Wednesday, May 9, 2007
All Eyes on Anabela.
It's clearly about quality, and not quantity, when it comes to the fashion shows each season. Newcomer Anabela Belikova walked in just 10 shows, but she earned the honor of opening Miu Miu, and now she's landed THREE huge campaigns for the FW07 season - Balenciaga (alongside Suvi Koponen), Prada (alongside Sasha Pivovarova, and Irina K), and the newly announced Nina Ricci! Keep an eye out for this fantastic girl because she is soon going to be EVERYWHERE.
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